Benefits of Riding a Bike

• Inexpensive transportation, commuting, shopping, visiting friends, meetings, etc
• Traffic jams and parking not a concern
• Minimal cost of up keep / repairs
• Help environment - reduce greenhouse gasses
• Exercise / burn fat and get in shape
• Combine exercise with transportation - no need for a spa membership
• Good for your health - lower blood pressure, reduce the risk of heart disease and attack
• Good for your mental health, reduces stress, endorphin release
• Inexpensive recreation or vacation
• Very social - join a club and meet like minded folks and improve skill levels

Bicycle Commuting

For the purposes of this discussion, we will look at commuting to work or school; the utilitarian use of the bicycle is basically the same, other than a change of cloths / toilet kit.

Bike: The route & road / path surface will dictate choice of bike - a hybrid with "city style" tires will do nicely. The bike has to be in good mechanical shape, tires, brakes, gearing, etc. Carry tube, pump, patch kit and basic tools, water & strong lock. Learn to fix a flat / put chain back on.

Route: (obtain bike trail maps if applicable). Fine a route; chose wide width roads / roads with bike lanes or paved shoulders / bike paths or trails / secondary low traffic or collector roads. Drive the route on a weekend to test it out, as well as time involved in the commute.

Talk to your Employer: What facilities are available - shower, locker, bike storage or racks. Remind your employer commuters are generally healthier and have less sick time; plus one less car in the parking lot! Perhaps alter your work day to avoid traffic peaks - flex hours?

Clothing: Wear brightly coloured, wicking (layered in cold weather) clothing. Pack work cloths (roll them to help prevent wrinkles). Bring toilet kit.

The Day of: Check your bike - the A, B, and C & D CHECK-off. Leave early in case of traffic congestion, wait 15 minutes before showering to cool down. Modify route as needed. Bike in first of week with cloths; take a day off if needed, watch for bad weather; buses with bike racks for part trips, drive to carpool / parking area and bike from there if a long commute.

Benefits of Commuting by Bicycle: Riding a bicycle only 3 hours a week can reduce the risk of heart disease, attack and stroke by 50%. Commuting will save money on transportation & parking as well as sometimes save time; ie not in long line ups, looking for parking space, etc. Hey, what about the environment?

The Do's: See, be seen and be predictable. Many prefer a mirror, but nothing replaces a shoulder check. Make eye contact with motorists. Share the roads, be polite. Follow traffic laws - remember you are / have the same rights / responsibilities as a vehicle. Be defensive!

The Don'ts: From time to time you will be cut off (right hook / left cross), position yourself to avoid same - do not get upset - say to yourself "that is not going to ruin my day!"

If you commute, you are a champion!

Bicycle Hazards

There are many bicycle hazards out there, but certainly one of the most important one comes from within! Developing a safe cycling mindset is not only important for your own personal safety, but for the overall bicycling experience. Things can happen quickly out on the road, you can be cut off by another vehicle or even bike, yelled at and a host of other nasties. At that moment one gets a shot of adrenaline; this gives you super human powers for about 15 to 20 seconds; we feel invincible (same as road rage) and as a side effect, this affects our reasoning. We MUST condition ourselves not to react, far better to focus on our personal safety at that very moment, and as a vulnerable road user, use this shot to flee, rather than fight. Condition yourself to do just that, and learn to say “that’s not going to ruin my day / ride”. Quite often the offence, when you settle down could have been either anticipated or perhaps avoided and it might not have been as alarming if expected.

SAPA – Scan, Anticipate, Plan & Act are all the aspects of safe cycling. Use them while you ride, especially in the immediate area you are at the time; ie within 250 meters from where you are at any given time.

Another way to prepare yourself is to learn safe riding techniques, skills, collision avoidance; all of which are taught through CAN-BIKE.

Now, let’s assume, you are alert, riding in a predictable and legal manner, brightly clothed and have the right mindset; below are some of the hazards you need to look out for / avoid:

• Winter cycling – the sun is lower in the sky and will produce glaring effects for both you and others. Black ice, snow& slush are all to be avoided; there is no harm in dismounting and walking past the hazards, assuming they are only for a short distance.
• Fall cycling brings wet leaves. The leaves are usually layered and with water in between are very slippery.
• Railway or street car tracks must be taken at right angles or one can either slip or the tires / wheels can be deflected; in both cases the rider falls. Falling on metal tracks especially in traffic is very dangerous!
• Holes, depressions, road cracks (snakes) and road debris are all to be avoided. The road snakes, if running in the same direction can, especially on a hot day, seize your wheel and launch you over the handler bars. I once was in a group ride and the rider ahead of me did not  signal a large crack, both of my wheels fetched up; I escaped injury, but it took 15 minutes to fix flat tires – front and back, as well as I needed a trip to the bike shop for wheel repairs.
• Puddles – these can be nasty surprises. How deep are they, is there sharp material not seen, or will a hidden object deflect my wheel and down I go? Avoid puddles.
• Loose surfaces – gravel, soft dirt, sand / salt on roads are all hazards to be considered. Reduce your speed, gear down and be extra careful on turns by avoiding braking, especially the front brake. If the back wheel skids out a bit, you have an even chance to recover; if your front wheel skids out then 9 out of 10  times you are going to fall. Watch for and avoid road construction areas, as lots of the above, plus tar abound.
• Sharp objects / rocks / branches all present hazards and potential blow outs. Front tire blow outs are more dangerous as steering is impaired and bad falls can occur.
• Group rides – Yes, riding in a group can be very dangerous especially if riding too close, failing to signal a stop or change of direction, a dropped object, like a water bottle (a friend of mine went over a dropped water bottle, lost his balance then went over his handlebars, into the ditch and was sidelined 9 months with a broken neck), pointing out road hazards, passing on the right by others, dogs on trails as well as pedestrian walking out in front of you.
• Bike lanes – surprised? Bike lanes serve a purpose, but quite often give a recreational bicyclist a false sense of security. The reality is that you are actually safer riding as part of the traffic flow. At any moment a vehicle can enter “your” bike lane and adversely affect your safety.
• Bike trails present many hazards, people, slow moving bicyclists, especially kids, animals and all in tight quarters.
• Rural riding presents a host of different hazards than urban bicycling, to name few: higher speed means less reaction time and greater injury potential, narrower roads mean riding only ½ meter from the road’s edge, so greater care must be taken watching out for broken pavement, etc and your usual 1 meter of “wiggle” room to avoid same is cut in half., Blind turns (vision is obscured by trees, etc.), Blind summits (I was on a century ride where a rider was hit and killed on a summit – the driver of the car stated the sun at the top of the hill blinded her), two-lane highway, with one car passing heading directly towards you.
• Riding at night – see with proper lighting, have proper lighting on the bike as well as reflective clothing. Keep your lights, both front and back on solid mode (not on flashing mode); as flashing mode is seen less, as well as harder for motorists to get the range or distance and as well tend to mesmerize other road users. Pick roads with less traffic and wider lanes. Be seen!
• Rain / wet surfaces. Usually when it rains visibility is bad for both you and the motorists that need to see you. If they can not see you, they can not avoid you, same as riding in the dark. I have found the most dangerous time to ride in the rain is when it first starts, as the fresh rain tends to lift recent road tar, oil from cars, etc and present a slippery slick. Braking power lessens for all; especially if you still have steel rims or V style brakes (disk brakes are more effective in the rain). While bikes don’t hydroplane, cars do; this is something all bicyclists need to be aware. Cornering on wet surfaces, riding on paint, crossing wooden surfaces or train tracks are all extra slippery, so reduced speed and caution are required.
• Truck, Cars, Buses, Motor Homes etc. Each of these presents potential hazards and is to be taken seriously. Intersections are points of conflict, the sudden right hand turn strikes the unwary cyclists – trucks and buses are extra long so are more dangerous. Oncoming traffic making left hand turns in front of you represents extreme danger! Quite often a car in your lane, while passing you, temporarily obscures the vision of the oncoming vehicle turning, hence does not see you until it is too late. My all time greatest hazard dislike is dump trucks (paid by the run or load) with long, extra wide trailers for equipment that are empty and flopping from side to side, I get off the road when I see these coming!
• Sundry hazards (for discussion) Glare from snow, ice, sun, wind, heat,  car lights, noise, sole reliance on bike mirrors or bike bells, dogs and other animals and the list is endless.
• Lane Changes can be equally dangerous, shoulder check, signal then do a final shoulder check to ensure your way is safe before changing lanes
• SAPA

Riding a bike is a matter of risk management as your actions not only affect you, but also those around you, including motorists. If you ride improperly, this can upset other road users and the most common cause of accidents can occur, namely DISTRACTION.

I would highly suggest you take a CAN-BIKE safe cycling course ; this will help increase your knowledge and skills as well as provide you with more confidence thereby making your ride on a bicycle more pleasant for all concerned. Thank you for reading this far!

Bicycle Conditioning

Folks in the springtime of year are dusting off bikes, pumping up tires and oiling chains, all in anticipation of a great year of bicycling. They are soon to hit the roads and trails and want to get in shape for a wonderful season.

It only takes about three or four weeks of bicycling inactivity to see the svelte shape achieved last summer all but evaporate. Below are a few thoughts on how you can get back your summer form and perhaps even advance your “game”.

(While I am not an expert in this field, stretching before ( warm up first) and after exercise helps to prevent injuries as well as reduce muscle stress and soreness.)

( Make sure your bike fits you properly, most seasoned bicyclists and all bike shops can help you in this area. A bike that fits is a joy to ride, the opposite is one nasty experience.)

• Start out your ride slowly. Yes, go easy for the first 30 minutes or so to let your muscle become accustomed to the demands of cycling. Bicycling is a great way to reduce weight** as well as gain conditioning and stamina. Regarding the weight loss end of things; this only really starts about 45 minutes into the ride, so why hammer it, if there is no benefit? In addition, the big leg muscles need time to warm up. Going too hard too early will only result is discomfort and take away from your day. Indeed, you will probably find yourself not being able to recover for the balance of the ride and possibly be too sore to go out the next day. As they say, “easy does it”. ** Most folks bike in the aerobic zone, or about 60% to 70% of their maximum heart rate (this would mean at the speed of 19k to 22ks per hour average). This is the prime fat burning zone, the benefits start about 45 minutes into the ride and actually last about 45 minutes after the ride. I burn about 650 calories per hour; at 21ks, I burn .16 calories per pound of body weight per minute – figure out what you burn – if you can maintain the above speed, if you weigh around 145, you will burn 540 calories, 175 about 600 calories and 200 pounds, like me around 650 calories. Every 3,500 calories burns away one pound of fat; so for me, a 135k bike ride will burn 3,500 calories, or a pound of unwanted passenger.

• When starting out on your first ride, do two more things after you plan to take it easy. Firstly, pick a gear one or two lower than you would on a sunny day in August with lots of bicycling behind you. As your conditioning and stamina improve in subsequent rides, increase your gearing. You will find with the lower gears you are “spinning” easily and are more relaxed. A cadence (revolutions of the pedals per minute – have someone count and time your pedal revolutions for a 15 second period and then multiple by 4 to get your cadence) of 70 to 90 is the target range; this is the most efficient way to bike for most of us. The second suggestion is to do shorter rides by both distance and time. A 60 to 90 minute first ride is just fine starting out and as conditioning comes back, these can be increased in subsequent rides.

• Interval training. After you have had a few rides, I have two more suggestions. Firstly, try to sprint hard for a 20 second period, then back off for a full minute or slightly more to recover. Do this 10 to 12 times a ride (no more, or even less if you are not recovering fast enough). Only do sprint training once a week as the big leg muscles need time to adjust. The second training I would suggest is to “stand” the hills, and keep in a higher gear. Again, target a 20 second interval and a full minute to recover. Another benefit to standing is that it stretches the leg muscles as well as relieves the butt and allows the blood to flow freely / help remove lactic acid from the legs.

• Diet. Bicycling can be demanding. Avoid taking a big meal, especially meats and dairy based , then going on a bike ride. These will cause a heavy feeling and detract from your ride. Save those big meals for post rides. Eat carbs, like grains and fruits, and snack at least every two hours.

• Drink . Water is best on rides, sports drinks have some benefit if the rides exceed three hours, I would recommend the powdered form and only use 1/3 (triple the water) of the recommended dosage.

• Rest . Hey, we are not training for the Olympics, so why beat ourselves up? Take little (bum) breaks every 20ks or an hour. These breaks could only last a few minutes, they could be eating an apple, a photo op / scenic view or just a good chat.

• Why not extend the bike season past October and do rides in November, December, even January when the weather warrants. Some of us bike year round so spring conditioning is only a minor adjustment

• The object of every ride is to have fun and want to come back!

Every one of us have the same 24 hours per day, so in effect, we have the same time available. Some of us have work barriers, family responsibilities and so on; at the end of the day, it is up to you to decide what amount of bicycling works for you.

Bicycle Touring – What to take?

Suggestions – submitted by Bob White, VP Touring – Bicycle NS / NS Ramblers.

For the Bike
Front (low rider) and rear racks, fenders, front & rear panniers, tool kit, two tubes, patch kit, pump, spare spokes, multi purpose bike tool, rack straps, two water bottles, bike light, front ( will double as camp light) and rear light, bell, spare tire, chain lube, rag, rain covers for panniers.
For the Cyclist
2 pairs of cycling shorts, cycling tights (can be part of rain gear), cycling gloves, cycling shoes, windproof breathable jacket (can be part of rain gear), helmet, 2 light shirts, and 1 warmer one, 3 pairs of socks,, one pair of wool socks, warmer cloths if spring / fall tour, 3 pairs of underwear, sweater for cool evenings, sandals, hat for warmth, sun protection.
For the Campground
Tent, including poles, pegs and waterproof full fly, ground sheet, sleeping bag, small pillow, good insulating air mattress pad, stove, fuel, matches, pot, small frying pan, mug, cup, and utensils, can opener, pot lifter, flipper, dish soap, dish towel and scrapper, food for emergency (can of tuna, ham, instant rice / potatoes, packaged soup, spices), towel, face cloth, deodorant, shampoo, $.25’s (for showers), clothes soap, tooth bush & paste, comb, toilet paper, 1st aid kit, bug repellent, candle and personal medication.
Other
MSI / Hospital card, emergency contact #, let someone know your travel plans before you go, wallet, money credit cards, sun glasses, Ziploc bags, maps, length of cord (clothesline, etc.), camera.
(You should now have about 45 pounds / 20kg) of cargo.)
Hints
Roll clothing tight and pack in Ziploc bags, keep weight to a minimum. Practice loading and unloading and ride the bike before tour – adjust cargo accordingly. Try to keep stuff in same location to save time searching for items – some cyclists have pannier “charts” for each pannier. I like a handlebar bag and keep my wallet, map, tools, spare tube and snacks handy. Wear bright coloured cloths and dress for the conditions. When “loaded”, plan to cycle at a modest pace. If traveling a distance, leave early, rest during mid day heat. Set up camp as soon as arriving, and then have shower to avoid evening “chills”. Eat well, and often – you will burn 600+ calories an hour – lots of fruits and veggies – they are power foods. Stay hydrated – this will reduce chance of leg cramps; I also take Tums, as I feel they have both calcium and help prevent leg cramps. I also take powdered Gatorade to replace lost electrolytes. If it rains all day, I look for a B&B / motel as I want to enjoy my tour. Book campsites ahead of time.
Before arriving at the campsite, I plan to stop at the last available outlet for fresh food for dinner, breakfast. Quite often we tour in groups; it is nice to coordinate meals with other cyclists, for both economy and variety.
Travel with a sense of humour and camaraderie; be sure to offer assistance to your fellow cyclists.
Enjoy yourself – Have Fun

Bicycling on Trails

Cycling on trails presents several different opportunities and challenges than cycling on roads shared by automobiles.

Generally speaking, I find cycling on trails about 20% more demanding than paved surfaces due to the type of surface, width, type of traffic and so on. If one usually averages say 20ks per hour on a paved surface, one will average about 16ks per hour on a trail. These numbers will vary from trail to trail. Based on the above, if one is in a hurry, the trail option may not be the quickest.

Below are some of the trail dynamics that affect a cyclist.
- Always ride on the right hand side of the trail.
- Ride at a speed not to exceed 20ks per hour, slower when “traffic” is evident.
- Traffic may be in the form of other bicyclists, walkers, and children, animals, including horses, ATVs, dirt bikes or service vehicles.
- For the most part, the slower moving users have the right of way.
- Signal (bell or horn) about 20 meters prior to passing. Use caution when passing; signify by stating “on your left” in a clear voice, sufficient to be heard.
- Be aware many joggers / walkers may be pre-occupied in conversations; on cell phones, listening to I Pods and the like and may be unaware of your presence. Reduce speed as you approach to pass. Small children and animals are unpredictable and could jump out in your path at any time – anticipate this as it is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO PASS SAFELY!
- Be polite and courteous with all who share the trails with you. This will enhance your overall enjoyment.
- Carry snacks, water, First Aid kit and cell phone.
- Report any “incidents” to a conservation officer (1 800 565-2224) 24 hours a day.
- Have fun!!

Cold Weather Cycling Tips

One can actually cycle in very cold temperatures quite comfortably. The old adage of layering holds true.

• Start with a base of either wool (if not to itchy) or a breathable synthetic – this will “wick” or allow moisture to escape from your skin outward.
• Continue with 2 or 3 more light, breathable layers, and on the outside, wear a windproof (Gortex) jacket, again to let the moisture escape as well as break the wind.
• Many of us wear wool long undergarments, under our windproof bike tights
• Ears, hands and feet are all exposed when cycling so must be well protected. I use a breathable balaclava, and sometimes, depending on how cold it is, an extra ear band. For my feet, I use wool socks, and heavy boots (non clipless). I use wool mittens or XC ski gloves, and in really cold days (minus 10 or below), my sheep wool lined rawhide mittens. Hands need to breath too!
• Make sure you are still very visible, as with the extra clothing (especially around the ears); your riding “senses” are diminished.
• Pick routes that are both reduced in traffic as well as roads that are wide and clear of snow build up (so you will have a “bail zone”, should you need it.)

There are a few “don’ts in cold weather cycling:

• Don’t wear fleece of any kind – great beach garments but sweat-traps
• Don’t stop for more than a moment (like a picnic lunch), as even with layering, you will still get chills; and the chills will probably stay with you for the rest of the ride.
• Pedal slower as to avoid overheating – winter cycling is not a place to do a cardio workout. Note that it will take longer to get places than on a warm summer’s day.
• Also note that the bikes moving parts, chains, bearings, etc. will be stiffer as the lubes are chilled.

I tend to wear similar clothing as what I wear when XC skiing. Remember, especially on out of town rides starting from a car (pool); bring extra clothing as you can always reduce.

The Flat Tire!!

In the world of cycling there are lots of ups and downs. We tend to think of the up-hills and not the down-hills. In addition, to the bicyclist there are a lot of nasty four letter words!  Words like - Hill, cold, wind, bugs, cars, and the worst in the miserable four letter word that begins with the letter “F”. Yes F*** or if you will FLAT, as in tire.

I fix about 20 flats a year; about 4 or 5 are on my bikes. I don’t consider myself an expert, but I did get lots of experience over the years.

  What are some of the common causes of flats?
* Tires are under-inflated, or perhaps over- inflated (rare if you follow the directions on the side wall)
* Tubes are installed incorrectly (either crooked at the stem or overlapping the rim (snake bite)
* Common road hazards like:
-  fragments from chunks of truck tires -steel belt portions the size of an eye lash – they work there way into your tire over a period of time and sometimes are both difficult to find and require tweezers to remove.
- Sharp rocks, glass, nails, scrap metal, road snakes, hitting firm objects, like the curb, and so on.
Some flats are slow leaks others sound like a rifle shot!

Most flats occur in the back wheel , not because the cycling Gods know this will be more difficult and dirtier to fix (chain, cogs, kick stands, etc to deal with) but due to 70%+ of your weight sitting on the back wheel, and on occasion, the back wheel is the torque wheel and this can help drive a nail “home”, so to speak.

How to fix a flat?
Ok, if you are on a group ride, the first thing is to sit the most impatient person and give them a book or some food. Next pick a safe place, out of traffic, sun and comfortable as a work-place. Someone once asked me “How long will it take you to fix a flat? I replied 8 to 10 minutes or if you help me – 15 to 20!”

There are several approaches to fixing a flat, if yours works for you – go for it! Here is my approach (assuming it is the back tire)

• change front free wheel to smallest gear, back to middle of cog
• release back brake
• loosen axle bolt / quick release (somewhat)
• get tool kit, pump and spare tube (1st choice) or patch kit and chalk at the ready – gloves if you have them – this will be dirty
• remove water bottles, panniers, computer / light and flip bike to rest on seat and handlebars. (Rather then grabbing the frame, I find it easier to hold the handlebars, lift the front wheel, while bike rotates on back wheel.
• totally release back axle bolt / quick release
• pull out back wheel, lift the chain in process – examine the tire for obvious damage; ie a nail hanging out, a chunk of glass or a slice – look at where the tire meets the road first, then the side wall. Chalk the damaged area – that will help you find the hole in the tube later.
• remove valve cap; with plastic tire “irons” deflate all the air from the tube.
• Insert tire iron a few inches from stem and pry up the tire from the rim; you may need 2 irons, they come equipped to hook on a spoke.
• remove tube by pushing stem through hole and extracting that portion of the tube first.
• Try to keep the tube reasonably oriented to the tire – put a bit of air in the bad tube and listen for air escape – sometimes I rotate the tube near my lips that are sensitive to the air escape, or if unsuccessful I will put a bit of water (water bottle) on my tube to see where the bubbles are escaping. When you find this, chalk the area of the hole (for patching); look for perhaps a second hole.
• If on a group ride, after examining the inside / outside of the tire to ensure hazard has been removed (run your finger on the inside and then look where the red line begins – no, I’m joking) – use your spare tube that you always carry with you. (you can patch the tube when you get to the motel / campsite or at home. Note – I seldom patch a front tube, as if riding and one gets a front flat, this is far more dangerous than a back flat – some patches can fail over time)
• Place half of the tire (one side) on the rim, leave space to get the tube in.
• Attach your pump and apply 3 or 4 shallow pumps, just enough for the new tube (take the valve cap off) to take form. Gently insert the stem through the rim. Make sure the stem is straight – 90% from the rim Work the new tube gently under the tire, starting from the valve stem, alternating sides until all of the tube is nestled under the tire. Then work the other side of the tire back on the rim being careful that none of the tube overlaps the rim. This is best done by griping the tire and firmly folding (a rolling motion) the tire away from you, starting where it is easy. And working both sides upwards. Quite often the tire will pop on without using the tire irons to pry the last section on.
• Partially inflate the tire – say 20 pounds and then re-examine the tire on both sides of the rim to make sure no part of the tube has snuck out. Continue to inflate as per instructions on the side of the tire.
• Now reverse what you did when you removed the tire – lift the chain, work the wheel into the slots on the frame, partially tighten the quick release, flip the bike back, hook up the brakes and spin the wheel (with the pedals) to let it get in the right gear as well as to ensure the wheel is not hitting the brakes as it might be a bit crooked. If it is scraping, release the axle quick release and straighten the wheel and retest.
• Put back on your panniers, water bottles, computer and light and you are “good to go!”

Alternate Method – ALWAYS CARRY A TUBE AND ASK SOMEONE FOR HELP

Gearing and Cadence

Today, I would like to talk (rant) about cadence and gearing. After you have been properly fitted to your bike (another session that will follow), learning the correct gearing and cadence (pedal speed, ie revolutions per minute) will certainly enhance your cycling experience. As I am rather large for a cyclist and sport flamingo skinny legs, long ago, I learned I needed an edge in order to keep up with my fellow cyclists. I learned to watch, study and listen, especially from those of similar shape and weight that constantly passed me.

Cadence
Most newbies have a pedal speed or cadence of about 60, or less, revolutions per minute. This is about the same leg speed as walking. This is too slow and not very efficient. Most seasoned bicyclists usually spin at 80 to 100 revolutions per minute or about 25 to 40% faster, and seldom vary from this cadence; except when spinning up particularly steep grades.
Quite often, I see cyclists pedaling in slow grinding motion (sometimes actually swaying from side to side). They assume they are building up strength, getting a great work out and this is the way to go. Wrong! Pedaling too slow will suck your energy as well as possibly damage your knees. A faster cadence is so much more efficient than a slow one as spinning in a lighter gear (lower one) allows your body to use the aerobic system for energy production. Pushing a lesser cadence in a higher gear forces your body to use anaerobic (flight) system for energy. Even if you are in decent shape, after 8 to 10 minutes, the anaerobic energy is exhausted, and you will be left with build up of lactic acid (feel the burn in your legs) and fatigue. Pedaling at a faster speed helps you ride smoothly, makes your legs supple and keeps a reserve supply of power when you need it, like on hills, being chased by coyotes or beating your fellow Ramblers to the cafe or bakery!

Gearing
As mentioned above, most new cyclists tend to pedal at a slower cadence. Try to make the change over a period of several rides. The simplest thing to do is to go to a lower gear, spin faster to maintain the same speed. OK, say you are riding on a gently rolling of fairly flat road at your normal speed of 20 to 22ks per hour and are in 2 / 5 - that is the middle front and the fifth smallest gear in the back (cassette). You can time your pedal speed or cadence by counting the revolutions over a 15 second period and multiplying by 4. Strive to increase your pedal speed to at least 80 revs per minute. If you have a triple crank front (ie 3 rings by the pedals), most of us will spend 90% of our bicycling time in the middle chain ring and vary from 2 / 2 to 2 / 6 (or from speed of 12k to 26ks per hour. The little front should be used on uphills, the steeper the higher the back - ie 1 / 2 or (granny gear) 1 / 1 if you have a 24 speed bike. Quite often I see folks using the wrong combination of gears (front to back); ie they use the big front and the big back or the small front with the small back. This is wrong for two main reasons; your power train is not straight (actually it is a bit sideways) hence you are missing out on transferring your power in an efficient manner and secondly you are putting extreme pressure on your back derailleur as well as wear on your chain. Stay away from big to big and small to small. Practice in the middle front, starting at the mid range (4 or 5). Try to develop the same pedal speed or cadence for most conditions by simply changing the gears to match the conditions. Always change the gears in advance of the condition for easy of cycling as well as to avoid wear and tear. (Quite often you will see someone throw their chain (chain comes off) either near the bottom or part way up the hill. This is usually due to either down shifting under pressure (not good - sounds like they are making popcorn!) or shifting too many gears at a time, hence throwing their chain.

Confused? Not to worry as we have lots of seasoned cyclists only too willing to help you out. That is how I and everyone else have learned. The object of the game is to go as quickly as possible with the least amount of effort and the greatest comfort. Hey, back in the 60's we gave up on our 1 speed coaster brake bikes for multi geared bikes for a good reason. You paid for your bikes, the gears came with the bike so use them.

Group Riding / “Gentle” Pace Lines

In the advanced CAN-BIKE Courses, we talk about group riding as well as pace lines.

Knowing about group riding can be both beneficial as well as help prevent falls and serious injuries. (A study by Jerrord Kaplan in the US determined that 17% of all bike accidents were bike to bike ones!) Usually the trailing bike goes down as the front wheel is deflected off the back (fixed, with more weight) wheel of the rider ahead.

There are several advantages to riding in a group / pace line, for the most part the wind resistance is reduced up to 30% for the group as a whole . There are several factors one should consider when riding in a pace line.

Here are some personal observations:

• Only ride in single file; ie no double lines please. Save that for the racers.
• Pace lines for recreational cyclists are only recommended for rural roads with low traffic.
• You must trust the group and be trust worthy.
• Know your personal fitness level and distance ability.
• A group of 4 to 6 is optimum. The riders should have relatively equal speed and abilities.
• Recreational bicyclists should be no closer than a wheel length or a full bike length for beginners, from the rider ahead of him / her; we are not racers and most of us lack the skill sets to ride closer. (You may loose a bit of draft benefit, however, there continues to be draft for up to five bike lengths).
• Riding in a group makes you both responsible as well as vulnerable to group actions or inaction.
• Practice straight line cycling and ride at an even pace – be predicable.
• Point out hazards, like road snakes and pot holes and railway tracks.
• Signal clearly your intentions – it is also helpful to vocalize, both to the rider in front (up the line) or to those behind you.
• Do not make sudden changes or pull over without notifying the group.
• Be extra careful with water bottles, etc as if they fall, they may well cause injury.
• Do not stare at the rider’s wheel in front of you, but further down the road by looking over his her shoulder or through the legs.
• Front rider will go at a pace slightly above his / her comfort level, constantly pedaling and not braking unless stopping.
• Front rider, will stay out in front from 30 seconds to 3 minutes, according to his / her ability to pull the group.
• Front ride will watch to see if group remains in the draft (together). Vocalize.
• Front rider will shoulder check, signal, shoulder check again and then pull outward and slow down to change position to the back of the line.
• Front rider will be responsible for the safeness of the change.
• Group will have a set system for getting front rider back in line in case of need, ie one cyclist speeds up, and one slows down.
• In a pace line, you are not a “train”, ie hooked to the rider in front or back and must act as an individual within the confines of the group. This would mean that you must stop at a red light or stop sign as individuals and regroup later.
• Drafting cyclists seek the wind shadow or sweet spot, this may mean angling outward. Leader may need to be well out into the lane. Back cyclist to watch and call for “Car back” so group can move back in to the side (1 meter or ½ meter on a rural road).
• If one bicyclist is passing another slower one and is trapped outside with an approaching vehicle, there must be a system in place to allow the passing bicyclist back in the pace line.

In a nutshell, exercise common sense; avoid chatter as this may detract from messages going up and down the line. Group riding in a pace line can be wonderful when riding say 40ks or more into a 25k+ headwind. The more level the terrain, the greater the benefit; going downhill, most of the group in the draft will need to brake even if the lead ride continues to pedal; going uphill, the pace is slowed and the benefits of the draft are diminished. In an average pace line, if one is used to riding at say 19ks per hour into a moderate headwind, one can expect to increase this to 24k+ with less energy expended. Riding in a pace line into a headwind can take away the “grunt” as one is kept busy with the “pull”, timing and dynamics of the group.

Those Dreaded Hills

Over the years, I have mused over folks reactions when they see an uphill in the distance. I have seen the look of fear, apprehension, awe, dismay, and down right defeat. Quite often, if there is a dip between you and the hill, it seems longer, higher and steeper – this is partly an optical illusion. Here are some tips from a fellow cyclist who, like some of you experienced all of the above emotions!

The Don’ts

• Don’t be frightened, a hill is only a time commitment
• Don’t rush to the hill or try to get a “head of steam” on; as when you get to the hill or part way up, you will run out of “gas”. (No need to rush, as I have yet to see a hill move – it will still be there when you arrive!)
• Don’t attack the hill, as it will attack back and win! While we all want exercise, don’t beat yourself up as when energy is expended, it takes time to regain and during this time you will pay.
• Don’t “push the big gears” to get ‘er over with – this will suck the energy out of you in jig time.
• Don’t wait until you are part way up to gear down to a lower gear – this could either throw the chain off, or put pressure your power chain (you will hear the grinding).

The Do’s

• Learn to maintain the same pedal rotation speed (cadence), and just adjust the gearing for flat, uphill or downhill cycling.
• Gear down to a lower gear, by a series of shifts as you approach the hill, that way you will be in the right gear, already “spinning”, and able to gear lower, if needed, without loosing your Mo.
• Think of the hill as only a time commitment and part of the overall ride experience.
•  Turn your brain off (screen-saver?) and go to your “happy place”. Think pleasant thoughts and about how lucky you are being out on your bike and how tens of thousands would love to be in your place!
• Stay within your comfort zone – if you have difficulty in talking (breathing) you are pushing – gear further down and go slower!
• Pedaling at 65 to 75% of your maximum heart rate is in the “fat burning zone” – that’s where you are – think about the cookies / muffins / ice cream & treats that you are “earning”!
• Be smart – don’t over do it. I have often stated “I have never seen a hill I couldn’t walk!!”
• Remember, when one goes up – one usually goes down – Joy!!

(For pedaling into the wind, treat it like a hill, gear down, don’t push it, reduce speed, tuck in behind the biggest cyclist, go to your happy place and “do the time”!)

Long Distance Recreational Cycling
(Prepared for the NS Ramblers first 100k ride)

The secret to cycling long distances is preparedness and staying within oneself. I have many friends who do centuries, 200k, 300k+ rides and would get a chuckle out of me eluding our 100k ride as long distance. The fact is that most recreational cyclists; or those owning a bike have probably not biked over 50ks in one day, let alone 100ks. A 100k ride is a challenge to someone who has not done one before.

Here are some observations I would like to present:

Before the Ride

• hydrate and eat well the day before the ride
• drink and eat on the ride, rest before you are tired
• make sure your bike is well oiled, tires are pumped up to near maximum and you have all the gear you need – see our website www.nsramblers.ca
• carry both snacks and sandwiches with you, something that is not heat sensitive (
• review the route / map, carry cellphone and have a plan “B” if unable to complete

Ride Day

• arrive early; get your bike, food, water and equipment in order – Do an ABC check.
• This is your ride, ride at your own comfortable pace; do not try to keep up with those who cycle faster than your comfort level – seek out riders of a similar speed.
• Start slow, finish strong
• Break the ride into four, 25k pieces; do them one at a time. Try not to think of the ride as a 100k ride but as a series of 25k rides, something you have done before
• “force” yourself to stop once for a few minutes around the 15k mark, you might not be tired, but at the 90k mark, you will appreciate it then. Complete the first 25k; commence the second and take another few minute break at the 40ks mark. Have a nibble, drink often.
• Stop for a couple minutes at the 50k / halfway mark, do some stretches and then resume. At the 60 to 65k mark, stop, sit down, relax and eat a sandwich; but stay for no longer the 15 minutes so your legs won’t get “stiff”. Resume and complete the rest of this 25k portion.
• You now have completed 75ks – only 25ks to go. Do not rush it, do not push it. Take a 3 minute break / nibble / sit if you wish at the 10k mark (85ks in all), and again after another 10ks (95ks in all). When you get up, you will only have 5k left or a 15 to 20 minute ride. Start slow, remain calm and “let the dogs out” over the last k if you wish – wait for the endorphin rush – it will come!!
• Congratulations – You have completed your first 100k ride.

Doing a century (162ks) is very similar; four 40k portions, same with a 200k ride; I like to break them up in 50k parts.

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Clipless, Cage or Platform Pedals?

So, you are wondering about turning in your platform (stomp only) pedals for either clipless or toe cage pedals? You heard that they make you faster; but you also heard that you can have accidents because of them…decisions, decisions…..

It is often said bicyclists fall three times getting used to toe cage or clipless pedals. While lots do fall, I used clipless for over 8 years and luckily never fell; there was one very close call when my chain came off when I started up a steep hill but I recovered in time. Now, on the other hand, I fell twice while using toe cages; my foot simply would not come out of the cage quick enough and I fell sideways (like Artie Johnston on the old TV show “ Laugh-in”). Most falls occur when stopping, like mine, they can shake you up a bit, however there is seldom much lasting damage, other than the ego as most often this happens in front of your fellow bicyclists.

Platform pedals are what we were used to growing up, and for the most part are best for short rides around town, in traffic, etc., where there are lots of stops / red lights. They are somewhat inefficient, as you only get thrust when you stomp down. Point of fact is that to some extent, you are actually working harder than needed, as when you push down with, say the left pedal, you also put some pressure on the right pedal, just to keep the foot in place and get ready for the crank to revolve to the downward position (6 o’clock) and for the right foot to take its turn in the stomp process. Platform pedals can be slippery in the rain / snow, your foot can slide off in rough terrain, like a pothole, or when you are standing up like going up a hill. When you have platform pedals, you really only use your large quadriceps (big muscles on the top front of your legs), hence are not taking advantage of all the muscles available.

Toe cage style pedals, are basically platform pedals with a cage attachment.. They do, to some extent bring in another set of muscles, namely the hamstring on the back of the leg. Another advantage over straight platform pedals is that when properly installed / fitted, they will actually help to center your foot on the pedal. Most recreational bicyclists tend to pedal with their foot nicely centered on the pedal, rather than the more efficient place which placed the “balls” of your foot in the center, which provides more spring / power. Now, the tighter the toe cage, the more advantage; however the greater the danger of being “trapped” when stopping or otherwise. To be honest, I highly recommend NOT using toe cages; or if you really want to use them to help center your foot, then remove those nasty straps and just keep the plastic “clips”, so your foot can be removed with less danger. Now, if I had to guess, I would suggest toe cages are about 5 to 10% more efficient than plain platform pedals.

That brings us to Clipless. These are by far the most efficient method in generating pedal power. You will need special shoes, with a wee bar, that actually “snaps” into a receptor on the special clipless pedals. This receptor, can be adjusted so the foot comes out really easy (as with bicyclists just starting to use clipless), and when you gain experience, it can be tightened slightly. You will find using clipless and a properly fitted bike shoe, your foot is perfectly centered at all times at the safest and most efficient location. The clipless pedal system is by far the most efficient style of pedaling as you become attached to the pedal / crank and use not only the quads but the hamstring on the up pedal. As you use the hamstring, you are no longer applying any pressure on the back pedal, like you do when you have platform, and to a lesser extent toe clip pedals. One can learn to think and make “small circles”, thereby generating a smooth and very efficient continuous pedal stroke. In addition, as your feet are better anchored, you can increase your pedal revolution / cadence and know that your foot has less chance of falling off when standing or going over rough terrain. If I had to guess, I would suggest clippless improve your overall efficiency not less than 15% and perhaps as high as 18% compared to platform pedals. The downside to clipless is the cost (pedals and boots), cold in the winter as the metal bar / receptor draws heat, multiday touring in the rain – boots are wet as well as the need to take other boots.

So, the choice is your! I like to use platforms these days ( hey, I’m in no hurry), as a lot of my rides are in town (utilitarian), or multi-purposed, ie I lock the bike and visit folks, go for a hike, etc. thereby not needing 2 sets of foot ware. If you are going for a rural ride, even for an hour, doing a century, wanting a fitness run or just want a great ride, then clipless is just the ticket.

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Learn to Ride a Bike!

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As always I appreciate your feedback,

Cheers and tailwinds

Bob White